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Planning A Trip Info: Swedish Vasa or Norwegian Birkie 

Exclusively for AXCS Members!

Updated: April 10, 2019

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The Swedish Vasaloppet and Norwegian Birkie are arguably the two most iconic events in the XC ski world. Both are common bucket list items for XC skiers, but given the massive scale of each event it pays to be organized when the time comes that you'll hop in one or both.

AXCS has created this first installment of our member's-only XC Ski Atlas to help our members plan special trips when the time is right. Please help the association by making contributions to this and other trip resources we hope to add by emailing your tips, ideas, input to axcs at xcskiworld dot com.

Swedish Vasa Trip Planning Notes

From the get-go it is important to understand the sheer scale of the Vasa Week. The Vasaloppet (aka "the main event") is just one event day in a total of nine with over 90,000 participants. This is the equivalent of 9 times the American Birkie impacting an area with not a particularly larger population base than upstate Wisconsin.

Thus, depending on your selection of Vasaloppet event(s) you may find it hard or impossible to find lodging in Mora or Salen (start place, very small village) -- or -- on the right day you might find it very possible for just 1-2 nights. For sure the "main event" Vasaloppet is the crushing draw. In 2010 several dozen AXCS members found it fairly convenient to stay in Falun (we were already there for the MWC2010) and "commute" over to Mora by bus, rail or rental car to then be incorporated into regular Vasa week shuttles. This system worked really well and lodging in Falun was reasonably priced. The only downside is that it means a super early morning on any Vasa event day (we left Falun at 2am for an Oppet Spar day).

Falun offers a beautiful public trail system right on the edge of town that is an easy walk if you stay at the Scandic Lugnet hotel which AXCS used for the MWC2010 trip and our members enjoyed very much. There is also a huge sports complex at the same facility with activities and facilities always open (for a fee). There are plenty of other lodging options in the core of Falun, but you'll have a few minutes drive or local bus/hotel shuttle uphill to the Lugnet trails.

Unfortunately AXCS does not have specific recommendations for other good ski spots in the Vasaloppet region of Sweden other than Falun. There are plenty of places -- we just don't have recommendations based on association experience at this time.

What about registering for Vasaloppet events?

Registration for the Swedish Vasaloppet events officially kicks off in the spring the year prior. However, know that it is extremely hard to get a main event registration spot before it becomes "fully booked" via the official website. Similar to super popular music and spectator sport events, there are so many people after spots that the Vasa if often selling out in hours (or minutes) making it a tough buy for North Americans.

So your options are often buying a spot from a re-seller or via a tour booking company. AXCS is working on more recommendations in this area (we can use help).

Or you can skip the main event and enter one of the other Vasa week events. Although most other Vasa weeks don't sell out as quickly as the main event and the relay, most days eventually will sell out. So if you are certain you are going and will do one of these other events, you would be well advised to enter by the summer prior to make sure you reserve a spot. Registration and other Vasa info here

Unless you have your heart set on being part of the main event, the AXCS recommendation is to do an Oppet Spar day -- preferably Monday as it can be a bit lighter on crowds. The Oppet Spar (translation: "open track") offers exactly the same event course, full timing with chips, all the same feed stations, the exact same finish area and amenities, all the same shuttles -- literally everything of the main event except with two differences. One is that the hardcore racers focus on the main event so the Oppet Spar is a much more casual crowd. Mostly true rec skiers and tourers. There are some good to pretty good skiers that will hop in to get a time for main event seeding the next year. But almost everyone is going to ski slower in the Oppet Spar. The second difference is that there isn't much media and hoopla for Oppet Spar days. The main event is literally a global iconic athletic event. It's a really big deal. It can be fun to be part of that scene, but the price you pay is you are going to start in a mosh pit of 15,000+....and the resulting chaos with that many people really is going to start before the start gun, last throughout the race day, and continue afterwards. By contrast, Oppet Spar days are as big as the American Birkie, but have a more low-key vibe so logistics won't feel quite so oppressive.

 

Norwegian Birkebeiner (Birken) Trip Planning Notes

The Norwegian Birkie (called Birken to the natives) offers several days of events culminating with the main event race (which can be as big as 17,000 strong!). Similar to the Vasa, there is an Open Track option on Friday which give you the entire event experience -- but without the same hysteria and mosh pit of the main event day. There also now a skate version a day or two ahead of the "main event". Also similar to the Swedish Vasa, the sheer size of the original Birkie means that lodging and logistics can be a true challenge no matter what event day you select.

http://www.birkebeiner.no/en/
Official event website with extensive planning info provided if you dig around long enough. The site is almost entirely in English and is relatively easy to navigate (although some items aren't updated for the coming year until Fall or even Winter).

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Some General Things To Know

--> Birken registration is entirely on-line and is a relatively straight-forward process. You can pay with a USA credit card (call your cc company before paying if they easily freak out about international on-line transactions). Couple things to note:

a. As of the 2019 season, the Birken currently isn't filling to capacity like it did a few years ago. So you can typically register in the summer or fall these days with good reassurance of getting in. However, if you are making airline and lodging arrangements it is foolish to wait if there was a sudden resurgence in registration so AXCS advises that you register once you have put money down on other areas of a trip.

b. When you are asked where you want to pick up your bib packet, where you sleep (or "stage") the night prior to your event day is the key. If you are staging out of Lillehammer then check the packet pick-up in Lillehammer. If you are staging out of Oslo Airport (Gardermoen) -- then mark Rena. If you sleep the night prior to skiing in Rena, then mark Rena.

c. For seeding purposes, the Birken initially may or may not recognize any performances other than other Worldloppets or major Norwegian events. The website will have a list of races they will for sure accept in consideration. If you want to make a strong case with other USA events, then you can try emailing >.

d. If you don't care where you are placed for start waves, you'll automatically be put in the later waves (high teens to 20s). If you don't have Worldloppet results, typically the 8-12 wave range would be as good as you could ever hope for. The Birken website has a chart with recent median and top wave times which is really useful. Although it'll involve some weaving, you absolutely can ski quite fast even if you were in a very late wave. There are usually 8-10 tracks and every wave spreads out a bunch in the first 3-5km.

e. When you register, you should get an email that will allow you to set up a registration account called My Page which allows you to manage different aspects of your race. Be sure to save that account info (there's a number and you will set up a password). It's wise to print out a copy of the critical info or save it on your phone. If you lose the email or can't get in, you can try emailing the Birken race office for help >.

--> The Birken course is a pretty tough route as major marathons go. You can see on the course profile that there are several very long stretches of climbs and these need to be taken seriously. Although the longest stretch (roughly 9km of climbing) is right off the start, the climbing sections in the middle sections of the 54km's -- although fewer km's in length -- are also quite significant and contain some steeper pitches when you are more fatigued. Wind can also make later climbs harder as you ski above the tree line for big stretches after the initial 10km or so. You should also be aware that there are some long and somewhat fast downhills. A couple sections in the final 10km can be really fast even in packed powder conditions and although there are up to 8 tracks available, for skiers in later waves some turns will often get some decent ruts. In sum, it is wise to be take your fitness and ski technique seriously for this particular Worldloppet marathon!

--> If you live in an area where you can ski uphill for significant periods, out of respect for the Birken course profile it would be highly advisable to put in some time in the preceding months before a Birken doing some workouts where you climb steadily for as much as 30-45mins at a stretch. Packed snowmobile roads can be useful for these sessions as they would typically offer longer climbs than most Nordic systems and they also can provide uneven surfaces for the long descents which help prepare you for the trickier Birken downhills after a lot of people have skied through.

--> The Birkebeiner Required Backpack Advice
—> The Birken website describes all the rules with stuff you need to put in the pack and the required weight (just under 8 pounds).
--> If you have food or drink in your pack that you will consume during the race, you need to factor that weight as additional to the require weight -- otherwise you'll come in light at the finish.
—> Various trail running back packs are often used. You ideally want to test a pack on skis to make sure you can properly swing your arms with poles in hand.
--> If you have a good hydration back pack you can either pull out the hydration system (to fit the required clothes) or plan to only partially fill the hydration bladder (again, to fit the clothes). Even with the weight of clothing, you may have to add artificial weight to get to the required ‘baby weight’. Some folks use water they won't plan to drink. Others will use small weights. Although a weird item, a travel wax iron can also work.
—> Very few skiers have their packs weighed at the start. Usually only skiers in the earliest (fastest) waves if anyone. But many skiers are checked by hand with checkers just after the finish line. If they feel your pack is light, they have scales at the finish and will enforce the rules if you are light. So take the time to make sure you are within the rules and plan carefully what will be in your pack beforehand.
--> One really nice thing about the pack is that you can keep your outerwear on your body all the way up to the final 5-10 minute countdown before your race wave will start. You then just stuff your outer clothes into your pack and away you go. This is really nice if it's cold, windy, or precipitating. Then at the finish you similarly have an immediate set of clothes to put on in the long chute after the actual finish line (even going fast, it will take 10-15 minutes to go down to Lillehammer from the finish line to get your actual shuttled bag stuff).
--> Finally, be sure to practice many times skiing with the pack in the weeks/months prior to the Birken. Ideally when practicing configure the pack weight to be the required amount and do a mix of long skiing as well as some moderate effort longer intervals (ideally climbing) so you know what the pack feels like both at marathon effort as well as over many hours. The pack will alter your technique in subtle ways so you want to get used to that feeling well ahead of time.

--> The Birken race start is literally based on a farm so it's fairly wide open. There is a big tent for race day packet pick-up and a small Expo for special purchases. There is not a ton of other shelter although there are some fire pits to help with warmth. So if it looks like it'll be funky start weather, you will want to plan on good outerwear for the usual Worldloppet massive event "stand-around-and-wait" until your wave. The waves themselves are set up to start in separated fenced blocks in a huge fenced area. They stagger the numbers to help with crowd control. It's a really innovative system, but you need to pay attention to big signs with your wave number on them as some start waves have to walk further than others to simply get into their wave area. Generally you'll be let into your wave area about 10 minutes prior to your wave time. You can enter the wave start area with your outerwear on (no need to strip down early). If you want to place your skis in the advanced positions of your wave then you need to be there when the wave area opens. If you don't care, just get there with at least 5 minutes to spare. There are portable toilets all over the place and even some on the far side of the wave starts (which will not have lines) so it will pay off when you have to walk further.

--> When you complete your Birken, you will be in the usual huge Worldloppet finish area where you can put on clothes in your pack and there is plenty of post-ski food to enjoy. Then you hop on a shuttle that will take you a few minutes down to Håkons Hall in Lillehammer where you will find an outdoor grid of all bags brought over from the various start waves. It's very organized and easy to navigate. In the Hall itself are showers and changing areas (that part is pretty crowded) plus a big Expo. It is worth checking at the race desk in the Expo to see if you qualified for some special awards based on age groups and other criteria (at the very least you'll get your official time).

--> To do the Birken the first decision you'll have is to figure out how to "stage" yourself for the race start and finish. With such a massive event, you don't want to leave anything to chance on moving you and your gear around so pre-planning is required. Following the 2019 Masters World Cup in Beitostølen, about half of a massive 200+ skier Team USA contingent decided to stick around for the Birken and we used two different staging locations (Lillehammer and Gardermoen Airport). AXCS members have also told us that it is also pretty easy to use Rena (race start) as a cheap and easy staging location -- you just have to be willing to "rough it" a little bit. See below for some options AXCS members have used.

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Rena (race start option for "staging")
Requires taking a train and bus combo or a longer country bus ride from Oslo or other locations to get to the town. On the official Birken website you may be able to find help with buses from the nearest train station (we think it's Hamar) the day prior to Birken events. You can set yourself up via the Birken website for a variety of sleeping cot arrangements (mostly gymnasium style) for the night before the main event and some of the other Birken week events. It's a little rustic and you have to pack light to manage your gear, but it'll be cheap and you'll be sure to make your race start being right there when you wake up. AXCS members that have done this report that the sleeping arrangement is actually more comfortable than you'd think. You can pick up your packet in Rena the day prior to your event day so that is really convenient. By being pretty much on the start line, you also have a much easier race day morning than other staging options so that is nice.

You will be given a "baggage tag" in your packet that can literally go on any size of bag which can then be placed on race day morning in the huge trucks that they use to transport participant gear to the finish line. Yes, you can put bags as big as fully loaded ski bags or even suitcases (!) in the trucks. This you might want to confirm is OK via the race office beforehand, but in 2019 we saw skiers having more than one bag transported under their number (the skiers just added their own big sign to the bag with the race number and racer name on it). Because your gear can go from Rena to the finish automatically, once you are done skiing you just have to reclaim your bag(s) and then you are fully mobile for the rest of your adventure.

Many USA skiers doing this option just hop on a post-Birken train in Lillehammer to head back to Oslo or north for other locations. It's 1.2 kilometers (15 minutes) walking downhill from Håkons Hall to the Lillehammer train station so walking with all your gear is in theory possible. But if you have a lot of gear or if there is a lot of snow/ice on the roads, it may be more sensible to plan on finding a shuttle or very short taxi ride. Lillehammer Walking Map

Note that race day train tickets should be purchased on-line at least a couple weeks before the Birken as they do tend to sell out on specific times. On main event day there are trains to Oslo every hour in the late afternoon and early evening. You may need to use a PayPal account to buy train tickets as USA credit cards may not be accepted on-line by the Norwegian train lines. Another option is to buy your departure train tickets in person at the airport train station when you fly in. There is a better chance of being able to get your credit card to work in-person than online. It is also possible to simply buy your train tickets with converted NOK cash currency or a pre-paid debit card you could buy at the airport. For Norway train schedules around the Birken you will want to go to this site…(note that the airport is "Oslo Lufthaven")...
https://www.nsb.no/en/timetables

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Gardermoen/Oslo Airport Staging Option
Gardermoen Airport is roughly the same transport time away from Rena race start as Lillehammer so on race morning it's not really any worse a journey and this option works nicely if you are pressed for time after the Birken to catch a flight the next morning. For MWC2019 skiers that used this staging option AXCS used the Radisson Blu Hotel literally connected to the terminal. It was a very nice hotel although food options are limited in the hotel itself so you may want to walk to the terminal or other nearby airport hotels for dinners: https://www.radissonblu.com/en/hotel-osloairport

For getting to the race start, you will need to arrange a train and bus combo to get to Rena (the Birken website will have options on how to get from Oslo up to Rena). In 2019, AXCS had enough skiers to book a charter bus direct from hotel to race start -- but that is only affordable with a group of 25+ skiers. There are plenty of trains on event mornings north from the airport and then there are special race day bus routes from select train stations east to Rena.

Once you ski your Birken and reclaim your gear in Lillehammer, you'll take a bus, taxi, or walk a couple kilometers to the Lillehammer train station to head back (presumably) to the airport hotel. See Rena notes above about trains on event days.

When exactly to book a train back to Oslo-Airport ("Lufthaven") depends on your best guess at planning your race time and wishes post-race. You need to figure out a good guess for pre-buying train tickets so this is an important consideration. Tips AXCS can offer are that it is best to allow a minimum 2-3 hours post your-most-likely-finish-time to get to the train station. See the chart of seed times on the Birken site to get an idea for your wave. Allow even more time window if you want to have time to do everything you want after the race. There are showers provided after the race, a big expo, Lillehammer is a fun down with lots of stuff to do, you will be at least somewhat tired and slower than normal after skiing a historic route, there is a beer garden, etc, etc..

You will then take the train roughly 2 hours back to the airport. Once you arrive at the airport, it's a couple minute stroll from rail station back to Radisson Blu lobby and your room. You can arrange a flight as early or late as you like the next day because you'll literally be right at the airport.

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Lillehammer Staging Option
A good number of MWC2019 USA skiers used Lillehammer as the staging option and AXCS picked the Scandic Lillehammer Hotel as a home base (which was also the AXCS choice for the 2004 Masters World Cup when hosted in Lillehammer). It's a big hotel with good food and is an easy 800m walk to the Hakon's Hall packet pick-up, bus pick-up to race start, and Expo in Lillehammer. All AXCS bookings at Scandic were already multi-night and it is likely that there is a two night minimum stay at the Scandic on Birken weekend. There are many other nice hotels in Lillehammer that may be cheaper or not have minimum stays. It'll pay to do your research. But note that Lillehammer hotels will absolutely book out for Birken weekend many months ahead of time. So it will pay to plan out lodging many, many months in advance! Note that you can also opt to pick up your bib in Lillehammer the day before any event at Hakon's Hall so this is a nice perk with this staging option.

NOTE: This option does not work if you are planning to fly out of Oslo-Gardermoen airport in the early morning the day after Birken. You need to allow 2-2.5 hours for the train from Lillehammer to Airport and then another 2-2.5 hours for international check-in, security, etc.. So with morning flights, you need to be at an airport hotel or in Oslo itself.

To get to the start on event morning, you will need to book a bus ride from Lillehammer to Rena via the Birken official website (they have the process all fully explained and you can book on-line easily) or at packet pick-up the day prior. We learned in 2019 that it is not necessary to buy and reserve the bus online via My Page. Those who can't get logged in to My Page to reserve the bus, can reserve a bus and buy the ticket at the bib pickup in Håkons Hall (Lillehammer). You will get a physical bus ticket to use the next day. There is no shortage of buses and everyone will be able to get on the bus you want -- even if you sign up the day before. The race day buses leave from Håkons Hall starting very early. It'll take about 2 hours to get from Lillehammer to Rena race start.

This option is a "finish line choice" so when you are done with the Birken all you have to do is take a shuttle a few minutes from finish line to Hakon's Hall (located on the eastern "uphill" edge of Lillehammer and then you just have the easy 800m walk back to your hotel.

Lillehammer is on the main Norwegian train line so you can easily go to/from Oslo via air, hop on a train direct to Lillehammer, ski-ski-ski, and then take a train straight back to the airport train station on whatever schedule you like. See Rena notes above if you are planning to take a train on event day afternoons/evenings.

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Sjusjoen Extended Time Options

If you have more time than just the Birken weekend to spend skiing in Norway, AXCS recommends spending some time in the Sjusjoen area 20km east in the hills above Lillehammer as your "base camp" because this region is so magical for XC skiing and it provides such great pre and post-Birkie staging options. The Sjusjoen area is generally regarded as an "XC paradise" with seemingly endless ski options. It's also very popular because the Berken trail goes right through the middle of the area.

AXCS member Dave Hosmer shares the following info for those adding a couple days to the Birken extension in the Lillehammer area:
There is a bus to Sjusjoen about every hour from the Lillehammar train station. The bus has a numbered named stop on the far side of the parking lot. Lets you off at a couple off at a couple of places with access to all the trails. The other option is to take a bus to Nordseter also from the train station and some Sjusjoen buses go to Nordseter after Sjusjoen. Time tables available in the Lillehammar train station. The problem with Nordseter is you ski uphill for some ways to get to the main trails. However the trail back to the Lillehammar OL (Olympic) Stadium leaves from Nordseter parking lot. Best plan is for those interested to spend $10 for the paper trail map available in ski shops on the Lillehammar walking street as well as at Sport 1 in Sjusjoen and the sport shop at Nordseter. Map is worth it.

With over 750km of groomed trails there are lots of choices. Trails in this part of Norway will often see fresh grooming, but given the number of trails not everything will be groomed daily. Most trails will have two classic tracks and a skate pad in the middle.

Here is the link to the web site for grooming reports for Sjusjoen. Very cool site and gives live results with a spinning icon for groomers on the move. Note that If you click on the vertical box with colored squares on the right of the map it expands with what the colors mean in terms of time to last groom. If you click on a trail on the map it gives its name and other info.

https://skisporet.no/setView/61.1566537/10.6987095/12/norges_grunnkart

If you prefer an apartment set-up, several local lodging options are available if you want to set up an individual or small group trip in Sjusjoen or Lillehammer. Note that you need to plan really far in advance to book anything the main Birken weekend!

Sjusjoen.no is a local booking agency with dozens of "high-standard" cabins and apartments in the Sjusjoen area. The website is in English and although it takes some navigating you can make on-line reservations. Space during the Berken week is case-by-case and may require longer stays so be forewarned.

Rustad Hotel in Sjusjoen comes highly recommended by AXCS members and has immediate family connections to U.S. master skier Michael Myers. Space availability is very limited during the Berken week so you will want to act quickly. 7 day, Sunday-to-Sunday reservations are highly preferred and may be your only option.

A locally-suggested option for ground transportation to/from the Lillehammer train station and the Sjusjoen lodging options is the LillehammerRingsaker Turbiler (LRT). Please note this website is entirely in Norwegian, but there is a contact form/email address (under "Kontakt oss") and you should get a reply in English via this route on information you need.

http://www.lillehammer.com/en/ is an easy tourism resource to look at options in Lillehammer itself if you prefer the idea of more amenities and a short daily drive up to skiing. The 1994 Olympic venue is just a short shuttle bus up above town (you can ski down to town if you want).

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Oslo Extended Time Options

AXCS Director: The following general touring advice for Norway was contributed by long-time AXCS member (and multiple World and National Masters Champion) Carolyn Tiernan who has visited Norway many times over the years. Anyone else with some general tourism tips -- please do not hesitate to send them in so they can be posted here >.

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If you have any opportunity, spend a day or two in Oslo. For about $47 one can purchase an Oslo City Pass which gives free access to public transit and numerous museums. There are also multi-day and senior discount (67+ years) passes sold. Don’t know all of the ways to get the pass, but I do know that it can be purchased at the Tourist Office next to the main Oslo train station. Google Oslo City Pass on line and get the details.

For me one of the must do things in Oslo is to take the T-banen up to Holmenkollen and check out the famous ski jump and the fantastic skiing. One can take one train up, ski to a hut that serves food out on the ski trails and then take a different way back. You can even ski at night as many trails are lit. When the skiing is good in Oslo, it is some of the best in the world.The 2 main train routes that go up to skiing are Holmenkollen/Frogneseteren and the Sognsvann banen. One can ski from one to the other.

The must see of museums are all out at Bygdøy - the Maritime Museum (many of the polar explorers, their ships etc - Amundsen, Nansen etc - really interesting), the Viking ship museum, the Kon Tiki museum, and the Norwegian Folk Museum.

On the way one can go to the Vigeland open air park with the famous statues. There are also other interesting museums - National Gallery, Munch museum etc and it is always interesting to walk through the grounds of the Royal Palace.